Portugal: O Sul

Good afternoon all, hope this finds you well and happy! I left you last week on a happy bus journey to Sines, and it was happy too to arrive. It's the first place I had ever wandered around in Portugal, and I did just that on this day, with a pilgrimage to say thank you to the town beach where the idea came of doing this project. This is an Atlantic town, and stays in touch with the rest of the world through being a port, and its World Music Festival every summer.  I end up wandering quite a lot backwards and forwards throughout the whole town, eventually finding the lovely Fernanda at the yarn shop. Someone recently, on seeing the pictures, asked me for directions to the shop, as she was from Sines and wanted to visit next time she saw her folks. I couldn't tell her, and I couldn't tell you either, but if you go around on a spiral from the art gallery in the middle, you will eventually come across it. Probably.

And then followed an even happier bus journey to Cercal, and I spent the evening being warmly welcomed by Monica and Carlos, my good friends, even though, once again, I have brought the beginning of the autumn winds and chill that's arrived with me everywhere I've got to. It is such a beautiful place, and such an inspiring one too....it was several years ago visiting them, while Monica held a wonderful photography exhibition in Sines, that I learned of the love and passion for crafts that is so strong in this part of the world. This is somewhere people don't just often know who makes their clothes, they seem them making; this still felt true in the west of Ireland, here, and in Morocco more than anywhere else along the thread.  It's soulful; flow and tranquility are important here, encouraged by the gorgeous light, the dry climate near an ocean of crashing waves, and the very meditative shapes and colours of the landscape. Both Monica and Carlos are constantly creating; beautiful and restorative gardens, vibrant rugs and bags, good memories. I think it's a worthy cause to put your energies into making beautiful things and spaces for people. It's infectious too.

I was so lucky to spend a few days here, doing lots in the garden, making, and also reflecting a bit on the journey, and how I would do things differently again. It was always going to be a learning curve, and I know the tight schedule didn't leave enough of reflection time, and also meant that when transport complications occurred (which they inevitably will), it made it quite stressful to organise catching up. Camping also made too many extra things to carry and to do, although there were some amazing and tranquil stops that did give some lovely thinking and working time in the nature. If I was to continue another Atlantic Thread, I'd definitely want to get some more formal funding; both money, time and space were all on such a fine line. But I definitely wouldn't stop the slow journeys, knitting and hooking away. 

Loja Margarida, the shop in Cercal is just a wonderful place. I've been here a few times before, and it was a pleasure to see both Margarida senior and junior again. They are full of joy, and their storage is full of yarn and findings. I stocked up on that elusive pure bamboo from rosarios 4, which is wonderful to work with, and some other assorted interesting colours in silk and wool. I think the picture tells you better than any description I could give. It's a huge contrast from my next stop in delightful Odemira. The lady who ran the shop I'd planned to visit had passed away that year, the shop closed down, but one of the general stores has started selling yarn. It had some really good stuff, but had obviously bought the job lot form the closing shop. It was crammed into a side cupboard and the woman got really impatient with me trying to look at things; 'It's all yarn, just yarn!' And to her it was, just something in the way that had to be there because some people buy it. Everything's much better when people have the chance to work with things they can feel passionate about. The best bar staff love company and humour, the best bakers love feeding people, and the best yarn sellers are like the Margaridas.

And also like the people in the last two shops I went to in the Algarve, the southcoast region of Portugal that I'd never been to before. First was Lagos, a pretty large town, which I only stopped for 3 hours. I'd been slightly dreading an urban environment after the peace of the Alentejo, but I was really pleasantly surprised...it's touristy, because the beach is bloody gorgeous, so I took advantage to have my last swim for a good while. (I can't deal with chlorine, so I try and take every chance when I can). The town is also gorgeous...and laid back (I guess it's slightly  off season, but may be more hectic otherwise). Tiras e Losangos was a fantastic shop...recommended by my friend Manda who'd visited there, and I'd asked her to check out what was around. Manuela and Arminda are both very talented makers, and it's adorned with their beautiful creations. They're also lots of fun, and I wished I'd spent more time there.

Moving on meant going through Faro- which did have a big city vibe- and onto Olhao. I think I may have said it- I definitely thought it- that each city I went to in Portugal had yet more beautiful streets, and yet more beautiful tiles, but here was just so special. A wonderful place to wander around and get lost...again, a night here was nowhere near enough....but I was ready to go home. It was a high to finish on, as I got to meet the beyond adorable Encarnacao in her shop here. I got to Artesanato Flores Bijuteria to find five women, all knitting and hooking, by hand and on machines. This wasn't a special knitting group...it's just what they all do every evening. They sell a bit, decorate places and just seem to really enjoy workjing together...and all surrounded by the most enormous range of yarns to work with. This is somewhere I definitely will return to, with a full wallet and an empty suitcase. They all asked about and were intrigued by the whole project, and said it made them feel special to be in it. So I felt once again very grateful. I've finished the main stage, and it feels like it was worth it.

Love and light to all of you, and wishing you all good worth in what you're doing 

Billy xxx